EATWEEK: THE POURCEL BROTHERS' GRAND CAVIAR DINNER

On 6 July, Moscow's new Caviar Russia venue hosted an exclusive dinner by the celebrated French twin chefs, the Pourcel brothers.

Caviar Russia bar and boutique is a signature concept founded in St. Petersburg by Maxim Shinkarenko and Olga Ratasep. Only weeks after opening at Globus Gourmet in TSUM, the Moscow venue became a destination for unique culinary events.

The season opened with twin chefs Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, holders of three Michelin stars. They prepared nine elegant courses featuring different black caviars, from historically prepared pressed caviar to granular roe obtained through traditional harvesting and modern live-fish methods. The jewel was exceptionally rare golden caviar from an albino fish. The courses were paired with Lanson Champagnes supplied by Simple Wine.

Simple's head sommelier Evgeny Bogdanov explained each wine's flavour, aromas and ageing. The aperitif was Lanson Extra Age Brut, with an amuse-bouche of corn mousse, black caviar and buckwheat popcorn. The opening course was an iced oyster with cucumber, black caviar and coffee sauce, paired with Lanson Black Label Brut. A richer appetizer followed: salmon tartare with black caviar, thin potato crisps and a vivid, contrasting black-caviar sauce.

Next came delicate scallop carpaccio with crisp seasonal vegetables, young hazelnuts and black caviar. Lanson Brut Rosé accompanied cannelloni filled with creamy cold crab, black caviar and fermented radish — a Russian character presented with French finesse. Every French person knows croque-monsieur from childhood; the Pourcels offered a refined version with foie gras, black caviar and crispy Iberian ham, alongside a cream with a sour-cream-like tang.

Warm egg yolks captivated every guest, served in ceramic eggs with caramelised onion and black caviar beneath Parmesan espuma. Lanson Brut Vintage's soft caramel notes complemented the dish elegantly. Potato and watermelon surprised many in the next course, but the chefs demonstrated contrast masterfully: crispy potato palas, grilled watermelon, Iberian ham, sorrel's gentle acidity and black caviar. A pre-dessert of grapefruit, black caviar and Champagne espuma, served in glasses, prepared the palate for the spectacular finale. Albino golden caviar crowned airy white-chocolate mousse with almond foam and salted-caramel sauce. Caviar in desserts is no myth; the Pourcels' final course left no doubt.

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